While it is commonplace for property inspectors to note the electrical service size and often the size of the main water supply, the size of the gas meter is frequently overlooked. If a gas meter is undersized, the attached gas appliances could be starved for gas – especially when the major appliances are running at the same time.
Meter Sizing
When a gas meter is installed by your gas utility provider (PG&E in our area), they size the meter based upon the total capacity of the gas appliances installed in the building when the meter is installed. The meter label (see below) will indicate the rated capacity of the meter in cubic feet per hour (cf/h), and out in the field, we typically see meter sizes ranging from 175 cf/h to 275 cf/h.
Meter Sizing – Rated Capacity vs. Maximum Continous Capacity
Unfortunately, it’s not quite that easy. After consulting with Armstead Ward of PG&E’s gas division, it turns out that a meter can provide more gas than its rated capacity. For example, a meter that is rated for 275 cf/h, can actually provide 385 cf/h of “maximum continuous capacity.” This is based on laboratory testing of each gas meter, and unfortunately there is no standard formula to determine maximum continuous capacity vs. rated capacity. Mr. Ward recommended adding 15% to the rated capacity as a conservative estimate for the maximum continuous capacity.
Determine your Demand
To determine if your gas meter is undersized, you first have to know the total gas demand for your building. The easiest way to do this is to add up the “British thermal units/hour” (Btu/h) ratings of all the gas appliances. Each appliance will have a date plate with this information, though some can be hard to find. Example building: furnace (80,000 Btu/h) + water heater (40,000 Btu/h) + kitchen range (50,000 Btu/h) + dryer (30,000 Btu/h) = 200,000 Btu/h total demand.
Size vs. Demand
The Btu/h per cubic foot of gas can vary, but PG&E uses an average of 1,000 Btu/h for every cf/h of gas. Thankfully, this makes them math pretty easy! If you have a meter with a maximum continuous capacity of 250 cf/h, it can provide a maximum of 250,000 Btu/h. As long as the continuous meter capacity is larger than the demand, everything is fine. For the example building above, the total demand of 200,000 Btu/h is smaller than the meter capacity 250,000 Btu/h and the system should perform as designed.
What can go wrong?
Adding a new gas appliances or upgrading gas appliances (think a kitchen remodel with a new commercial style range) can upset this balance. Just the act of switching to a modern tankless water heater can increase demand by 160,000 Btu/h or more. When gas appliances are starved for gas, they will not function at maximum capacity, and will be prone to soot buildup.
What can be done?
Basically, it’s time to call your gas utility provider. They can come out and switch your gas meter with a larger size. After consulting with PG&E, they confirmed that they would upgrade the meter size at no cost to the customer. Time to calculate your total gas demand and then see what size gas meter you have. Let us know what you find and leave a comment below.
Note: this post was updated on 8-1-16. The original post did not clarify between the rated capacity and the maximum continuous capacity.
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Thank you for you post…You answered my question
Thank you
I am in the process of this right now and PGE certainly is not upgrading it for free… It is costing us $5,000! All PGE fees. Plus we have to trench ourselves before they will do it. So add more money to rent the machine to do this. We are a bit frustrated with PGE at this time. I wish it were free.
Dana-
Thanks for your feedback. I’ve definitely had several clients who have upgraded their gas meters for free, so I wonder what is different in your case. When you mention trenching, that makes it sound like PG&E is putting in a new gas service line. Please tell me more, when you have a moment.
Can you tell me what the max out put is for a 1/4 psi main gas supply. My gas meater supply company says they have a meater that will produce 3050000BTU FROM THIS SIZE LINE BUT WE ARE ONLY ASKING FOR 951000.BTU. PGE wanting to charge us for a complete new gas service?.
John, the main gas line is not usually at 1/4 psi, it’s at a higher pressure. The regulator just before your meter reduces the the gas to the “house” pressure of 1/4 psi. You’d have to ask your local gas utility the pressure of the main gas line and the size of the main gas line, to be able to figure out the capacity of the main gas line.
Will PGE come out and upgrade the gas meter for free? I’m installing a stand by generator that pulls 327 cfm at full load. Meter says 250. Do i need to upgrade the meter?
Yes, PG&E will typically upgrade your meter for free **BUT** they will not upgrade your gas main piping for free. While the gas meter can often be the limiting factor, so can the size of your gas main. If the size of the gas main is too small, and can’t meet all of your natural gas demands, you will have to pay them up upgrade the gas main piping.
Ever heard of a PGE gas meter that works fine but does not record usage?
Alton-
I’ve never heard of this, but seems like it could be a very popular gas meter… 😉
It may be that the “SmartMeter” was not sending information out?
The meter reading has remained the same for four months. My bill shows “0 Therms used.” Bizarre.
I had these “professional ” plumbers install new gas burners on my water heaters , one that they tried too fire up was a 300k (btu) but they just cant get it too fire. Do you think this is because of the gas meter is too small? The meter is an ac250,
Thank you very much in advance
Rauel,
Hard to know for sure, but from what your describing, I doubt it’s the size of the gas meter. Typically the appliance will run, just not run properly.
That said, a 250CH meter is too small for 300k BTU/H water heater, and then add the furnace running at the same time – and it’s way undersized.
If you don’t have confidence in your plumbing contractors, by all means, find someone who knows what they are doing. Often for appliances over 200,000 BTU/H, people will use a Boiler/Steam Fitter contractor, as they have more experience working with high BTU appliances.
Hi I have equipment in my house that total 1013000 but with a 1 inch line from main to house .
Do they have to switch the meter only ?
It all depends on the pressure of the gas from the main to the house – the higher the pressure the higher the CFH. Gas distribution uses “high pressure” (a relative term) gas, and the gas regulator before your meter bring the pressure down to “house pressure.” The sizing rules in this blog post only apply for low pressure (house pressure) system. You need to ask your local gas provider what pressure they use and ask was the max CFH is for that line.
Did you ever get this resolved? Ours has also read zero therms for the past few months.
This just happened to me. Three months later PG&E sorted it out and added the gas I used to my bill. I was initially shocked and outraged when my bill was $500 more than expected. And yes, it was a Smartmeter communication issue.
Can we confirm if this gas meter upgrade is still free? I have an ac630 but putting in a gas firepit in Backyard with about 180k btu so prob need to upgrade it. If it’s free I’ll do it, otherwise I prob won’t.
While utilities will often upsize your meter for free, given that you already have an AC630 gas meter (630 cf/h) there is a good chance you’re maxing out the capacity of your gas main. Utilities will charge you to upgrade the gas main piping, and it gets expensive quickly.
So what you are stating is that the cf/h, is equal to the same number of BTU. I am not too sure of that because on this other webcite it os saying that theri is a approximate 1,000 unit difference between the two
No. Read the “Size vs. Demand” section of this post, and you will see that PG&E uses 1000 BTU per CFH.
Oh I understand now, I took me some time to understand! Had to re- read it a couple times to understand.
. in this case they are charged also for the meter size upgrade which is still minimal at $80
i am trying to add an outdoor firepit and a grill both powered by natural gas. Assume I am close to or past maxed out on capacity (I have a 275CF/h) PSE&G meter. If in the summer, obviously my furnace is off, the dryer will be off, the stove inside will not be used…..does that mean I should be good capacity wise to use the firepit and grill? I guess what I am asking is, do appliances not in use lower capacity?
I am sorry, I meant do appliances not in use RAISE capacity?
Gas meter sizing is based on the worst case scenario, basically, each gas appliance running at maximum capacity. You could argue that it’s conservative, but don’t go there – it’s a slippery slope. I’ve you’re worried about your capacity, ask your local gas utility for an engineering review, and they should provide an answer in writing.
I have this same scenario of adding fire pit and bbq which will put me over the min by ~50k BTUs. Gas company say main line won’t support upgraded meter and I share gas line with neighbor which requires tearing up neighbors driveway. If firepit is only used a few times a year and I ensure other appliances are turned off is it ok? Neighbor not willing to break driveway unless I replace all surrounding concrete. Don’t think it’s worth 10k when only using fireplace a few times a year.
Hi Joe, I want to upgrade water heater to tankless, which adds 117,000 BTU over the one I’m replacing. Adding in the other gas appliances, my demand goes from 214 cf/hr to 329cf/hr. Meter states 250cf/hr. Would I need an upgrade? Is the regulator adjustable to go higher than 250cf/hr? Another ? I have is the supply line to new tankless heater. I’ve currently got about 10 ft of 1/2″ line coming off 1″supply running to tanked heater. Specs on new tankless state up to 24′ of 1/2″ can work, but hook up is 3/4″. Thanks
John, the regulator is not adjustable and is a separate device before the gas meter. I recommend requesting a larger gas meter any time to you over the listed capacity of the gas meter.
Regarding the gas line to your new tankless, the allowable lengths are only for dedicated lines, if your gas lines are being shared by multiple appliance, sizing has to be increased. A licensed plumbing contractor should be able to figure out the sizing.
I have a 1/2 inch high pressure line coming into a two unit building in San Francisco. The current system would supply enough BTU’s to the property.
I have an existing 400 meter and a 250 meter supplying gas to the property. I was able to add a legal third unit 787 sqft.garden apartment within the footprint of the original building. I’ve been trying to get a third meter for the new unit for 2 1/2 years now from PG&E. They claim I can’t add an additional meter to the existing system in the same location since 1929. They say according to the green book the system is now considered a new service. They want me to take away the existing meters from a breezeway which is open to the elements on both ends and would be secure for safety.
Instead, PG&E wants to re-locate to the front on the property exposed on the sidewalk right next to the driveway making it very dangerous for a car to hit or someone tampering with the 3 meters. They will make the area very much unsightly to the property and to the neighborhood. I would also be responsible for the cost of running new gas piping to that location. I’ve gone through 4 PG&E gas reps over the 2 1/2 years now because they have left to different parts of the Bay Area.
They have made hire an engineer to do a plan showing the meters being installed in the breezeway on the advice of the field rep. Spending thousands of dollars to end up in the garbage because the behind the scene engineers constantly say NO to every site recommend by the field rep.. I had to hire yet another engineer to draw plans for the front location,
They want the meters in front but the SFDBI and historical preservation dept. both say NO to the front location. The PG&E rep has told me either it goes in front or It doesn’t go in at all!! So I now have a new unit that PG&E won’t supply gas to because the SFDPW won’t issue me a encroachment permit to install the meters.
I’m totally frustrated and lost dealing with PG&E and the City. Any suggestions please!!
I definitely understand that can be difficult to deal with PG&E. Here are two thoughts. First, when I see gas meters out front of a building, especially in San Francisco, they are typically in underground vaults. Has this been suggested? It won’t be cheap to tear up the sidewalk and put in the vaults, but it may be your only option. Second, consider switching the third unit to all electric appliances. With induction ranges and heat pump appliances, it’s not such a crazy idea anymore.
Good luck!
Will the size of the meter make an impact on the capacity of btus pressure in the pipes?
The meter size will impact to BTU capacity, but that is different than pressure. Almost all residential natural gas system use a regulator to reduce the pressure down to about 1/4 psi before the gas goes through the meter. There are a few systems that use medium pressure gas for distribution, but then they have to use regulators to reduce the pressure down to 1/4 psi for the appliances, but this type of system is pretty rare.
I have a question. We replaced a branch from the meter to satisfy a new tankless water heater. The gas meter is rated to handle the btu’s. Our home was built in 1924. While there is a 3/4 inch line to the regulator and meter, it branches from a 2 inch line that runs into our crawlspace about 2 feet from the meter outside on the other side of the foundation wall. Is it normal to have such a large gas line prior to the regulator run under the living space?
I’m a bit confused by your question. You say 3/4″ line to the regulator then meter, but then you ask if it’s normal to have “such a large gas line” prior to the regulator. A 3/4″ steel riser is common in my area, but each gas utility has their own rules and regulations. If you’re talking about the gas lines after the gas meter, then the plumbing code comes into effect. Please clarify or ask your question again, thanks.
My question was about the 2 inch line that comes from the street and ends with a cap under the foundation in the crawlspace under my house. From that 2 inch line a 3\4 inch line goes back under the foundation wall to the regulator then meter on the outside. The 3\4 inch line seems normal yes but finding that it comes off a 2 inch line under the house seems strange. This is in the PGE service area in a house built in the 20s. Obviously the meter due not date to that era.
Joel, the old gas distribution system used “low pressure gas” and utilized larger gas piping to help reduce friction loss. I’m guessing PG&E is still using the low pressure gas piping in your area, which I still see in a few neighborhoods. Is there a regulator (pancake shaped thing) between the gas shutoff valve and the gas meter?
I am having a spa installed and the contractor told me that I should contact PG&E to request a free gas meter upgrade. I cannot find anywhere on PG&E’s website on who to call or how to contact them.
Do you have a direct link you can share? Thank you!
https://www.pge.com/en_US/residential/customer-service/help/contact-pge-landing/contact-us.page
I just had the new gas meter installed this week. Everything was easy and straightforward (and fast!). PG&E staff were very helpful. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Did you go through the whole process outlined here?
https://www.pge.com/includes/docs/pdfs/shared/customerservice/otherrequests/newcontruction/BRSC_Guide_GasServiceChangeExisting.pdf
I called PG&E (Build & Renovation Services) and was told to fill out the application online, then a local representative would contact me. Did you go through the entire process of getting all the permits, showing blueprints/plans, etc.? I’m trying to figure out what I need to do to avoid delays for my project that’s currently in progress. The city is pretty much non-responsive. They won’t return my calls.
If you are changing an existing service, because you added appliances (or larger appliances) then you just need to deal with PG&E. It is important to note that it is required by most jurisdictions get get a permit for new gas appliances, like water heaters and furnaces.
If you are getting a new gas service, or increasing the size because you are adding an addition, then PG&E will typically only connect after your permits have been finaled.
Very information article. I have current AC-250 meter with 3/4″ (10 LT) connector. With new appliance addition, it is turning out that I shall need 1″ at meter (20 LT). However, CFH is still staying under 250. Does this need change in the meter itself by PGE?
Usually, people will upsize the piping to 1″ just after service tee (after the meter). If you’re looking to get a gas meter from PG&E that has a 1″ connection, I think you are going to have a hard time convincing them of that.
i’ve heard this before…isn’t strange though that the just before the service tee (after the meter), is 3/4″ then upsized to 1″. won’t it lose pressure in that little run of about 6-8″ with the meter elbow –> swivel –> tee?
it thought it would have to be 1″ as soon as it exits the meter then into your house?
Smaller diameter pipes cause more friction, but since the length is so short, it shouldn’t cause a problem.
i have a 357 btu natural gas meter and i have a 355 btu generator, is my gas meter big enough to feed my generator?
In theory a 357 Btu/h gas meter can supply a 355 Btu/h generator, but I’m guessing that the gas meter has more demands than just the generator. You have to combine all the gas loads to properly size the gas meter.
Thanks for posting this and taking the time to answer peoples questions! Here’s another one for you: Do you think the building department (I’m in Santa Cruz County) will care if the meter is undersized? I’m about the do a kitchen remodel which will include a gas range. I have gone through the calculations and if all the appliances were used simultaneously, it is undersized by about 75,000 BTU. But that will never be the case because it includes several seldom used items like an outdoor fireplace and BBQ unit, not to mention I would never be using all the indoor items at the same time. Thanks!
Ryan,
I would say that the County should care, but this is something that is often overlooked. The gas meter is sized based upon all gas appliances being used at once, not matter how unlikely the occurrence. Based on you calculations, you can make your own call on whether it is necessary. Given how natural gas prices have spiked recently, I may consider switching some of your appliance to electric…
Is it an absolute that a 275cfh meter is going to be able to handle 385? I only ask because I upgraded to tankless water heater and that would put the max capacity of all my appliances at 339k btu. I have a 275cfh meter and my gas company wants to rip up my entire front yard to upgrade my meter. If I’m not experiencing any issues should I be concerned about this?
Alex, it is not absolute. PG&E has done testing to determine that you can go beyond the listed capacity of the gas meter, but I have not found any documentation that the meter manufacturer will allow this. I would contact PG&E and let them know your new maximum capacity, and if they are not willing to give you a bigger meter, ask for an engineering evaluation. The engineering department will then check out the issue and send you a letter with their findings.
Is it an absolute that a 275cfh meter is going to be able to handle 385? I only ask because I upgraded to tankless water heater and that would put the max capacity of all my appliances at 339k btu. I have a 275cfh meter and my gas company wants to rip up my entire front yard to upgrade my meter. If I’m not experiencing any issues should I be concerned about this?
thank you, that is what I kind of figured. I appreciate asking for the engineering evaluation. They are telling me in order to upgrade my meter they need to replace my main which doesn’t sound right considering they replaced it 4 years ago. I requested that.
Alex, the gas main coming from the street will have a maximum capacity as well. For example, putting a large 1500 CF/H commercial gas meter on a typical residential gas main will not provide 1500 CF/H of gas, since the size of the gas main will restrict the flow of gas. Good luck with PG&E.
I just had a Southwest Gas tech tell me that my 250cfh rated meter can handle 3x that load because downstream of the meter (just before entering the house) it’s split into 3 pipes (through a series of T fittings) Has anyone ever heard of this? Seems very dubious to me – if the diaphram is the limiting factor for flow, what does the splitting of the pipes downstream of the meter have to do with it? My current max load with everything at max is 450 cfh, and my contractor & plumber have said I need to upgrade the meter. The tech did say that when I add my generator, (300 cfh) I’ll need to upgrade the meter (which doesn’t follow from his logic because if splitting it 3 ways gives me 3x, then I’d be able to support 750cfh which will be my new max with the generator…) I dont want to damage my all of our new appliances by starving them for gas….
I’m dubious as well, especially since their explanation doesn’t make sense. I’m not sure how Southwest Gas deals with it, but I’d request an engineering evaluation from the utility that should determine the proper size of your gas meter. Basically, you need to go higher up the food chain.
Hi Paul!
Thanks for this awesome post and thread of comments. Im also in PGE territory here in the Bay Area. My meter has a few set of #’s. the top says “AT-210” followed by “MAOP 5 PSI” the second line says “210 c.f.h. @ 1/2″ diff” followed by “ANSI-CLASS 175”. I’m assuming the manufacturing company is “American Meter Company”
Do i have a 210 cfh or a 175 cfh? Thanks
David,
That’s a 210 CF/H meter. The ANSI class covers a range of meter sizes.
My meter says 250 CFH @ 1/2″ Diff. The line looks like it is only 3/4″ coming into the meter. The house furnace line looks like it is 3/4″ and says it is rated for 92k BTU.
I am looking to change my water heater to a tankless and the quote I received has a 199K BTU rating. The gas main is about 35′ away from the water heater.
Not sure what the @ 1/2″ is on the meter rating?
Does it look like at the very least that my meter is to small?
also maybe a new gas line will be needed even to upgrade my meter?
If so I may just go with a new tank water heater and circulation pump.
thanks
Brian,
The 1/2″ on the meter refers to the pressure drop of the gas going through the meter, in inches of water column.
Looks like you’ll need to upgrade your meter if you add a tankless water heater. Given the distance between your gas meter and tankless water heater, you’ll probably have to upgrade the size of the gas line to at least 1″ – but you’ll have to confirm with the water heater installation instructions. There should be a chart.
Paul
Thank you for all the information you post. I have a question. My current cooktop has a 1/2 inch line coming out of the wall going to a 3/8 flex line to the cooktop regulator. Appears to be 3/4 in the attic switching to 1/2 somewhere in the wall. I’m wanting to install a new cooktop that calls for 3/4 line going to 1/2 into the cooktop. Will switching the flex line be adequate or do I need to get the actual pressure measured? I have no idea how long the 1/2 inch run is. Thanks in advance
Mark-
It’s hard to answer that question over the internet, but from what I gather, your new cooktop requires a continuous 3/4″ line, so you need to get rid of the fitting that reduces the size to 1/2″ so you have 3/4″ all the way. Please don’t mess around with gas piping unless you are licensed plumbing contractor. Well worth the money to hire a plumber and have them open the wall to find the reducer fitting and make repairs as necessary to meet the cooktop’s specifications.
Paul, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Im buying a warehouse with a gas meter of 1’000’000 BTUs and a 3/4 Pipeline. I run and industrial linen service and my
dryers plus water haters add 3.000.000 BTUs. If I request to PG&E a bigger meter do they need to incresase the size of the Pipeline? Whats the max meter capacity on BTUs than I can request without having to upgrade the 3/4 Pipeline?
Thanks so much for your help
Fernando-
For commercial properties, PG&E typically runs high pressure gas in smaller lines, so the 3/4″ gas main *could* have adequate capacity if the pressure is high enough. You’ll have to ask PG&E if your main gas service (line size and pressure) can accommodate your demands.
What happen if the utility company cannot upgrade the gas meter? Can we hire private contractor? Our gas supplier is piedmont natural gas, and the meter for our unit is on a 3 connecting meters bank. We need to upgrade 1000 meter low pressure to high pressure meter. Just not sure how to go about it, thanks
I would think that most utilities would run a new high pressure gas line to meet your needs, not that it would be cheap. If you’re in a multi-unit living situation, it may be hard to get approval from the building owner/HOA. It may be easier to switch to high efficiency gas appliances to get around these constraints. Too many unknowns to give you any more specific advice than that.
Hello,
Can you please help. I have 3/4” from street to regulator, 3/4 regulator to gas meter, 1” from meter to elbow expander (1” -> 1/1-14”) to main trunk 1-/14”, then smaller diameter branch to gas stove (40k btu) from trunk, and a 1” branch from trunk. This 1” branch carries smaller lines to dryer (22k btu), furnace (140k btu), two water heaters totalling 80k btu, and upstairs furnace 90k btu. Total btu of all appliance= 372k. My gas meter is 275 can, so assuming it can handle more the meter is marginally sufficient, considering I will not run all appliances to full capacity at the same time. I am planning on replacing my two water heaters (80k btu) by tankless (199k btu), therefore my total appliances will consume 491k btu), and pseg will be coming over for meter replacement. My concern is that the 1” branch is now carrying most of the appliances totalling 332k btu, and this will increase to 451 btu if I install tankless. Since the tankless will be approx 80 ft away from the meter, and the upstairs furnace will be maybe 130 ft away from the meter, it appears that the 1” branch is overloaded currently, and will be even more overloaded with the tankless. My thought is replace the 1” branch (approximately 18inches from branch junction with trunk ) with a 1-1/4 branch (it then becomes a continuation of the trunk). Looking at the pipe size vs btu vs distance from meter, and not accounting for pressure losses due to fittings, , with a distance of 130 for the most remote applicants,, the btu capacity of 1-1/4” pipe is 340k btu, whereas for a 1” pipe the capacity is 165 kbtu. Considering that the branch now handles 332k btu, and 451k btu if a tank is installed, will this we somewhat of a workable solution since all appliances may not run at full load at the same time. Currently the system has been operating over the years with this 1” branch, and have not noticed any problems, expect my one tank water heaters has been leaking for a few years and is turned off, and may not have any relation to the system under capacity described above. Your answer will help me decide if I need to switch to tankless or replace the two tank water heater with two tank water heaters (50 gallons each).
It’s hard to tell from your post, but 451 CFH on a 275 CFH meter seems like a lot. I would call your local gas utility. As for sizing of the gas lines, you need to have a licensed plumbing contractor calculate the sizing based upon the plumbing code.
As for deciding on what water heater to install, given the trend of gas prices, I’ve been recommending heat pump water heaters. They are 3-4x more efficient that the most efficient gas models, and run on electricity. If you have solar, it makes even more sense.
Paul, my knowledge of metered gas supply is limited; however, I am adding a 300kbtu generator on a P-275 meter in addition to an 88k furnace input and gas stove/oven. Total max capacity will be around 425k tops. The gas utility company advised me the meter can deliver over 500kbtu. They turn up the delivery pressure and change out part of the meter. I suppose the portion that measures consumption. He then advised I’ll need to install a pressure reducing regulator to the generator and another one to the main into the house. Feel free to share you insights here.
Do you know what pressure regulator model or spec is acceptable?
They would typically “turn up” the meter to what I seem to recall, 2psi (or maybe up to 2psi, which is over 4”wc). Although the meter is rated at MAOP 5psi.
I retired from the HVAC industry and went to Kohler generator tech school. However I’ve never been in this position to turn up the meter and then regulate it down. I generally passed on these complexities to our plumbers.
Thanks for enduring through this post.
Kevin-
If the plan is to step up the pressure, then you’ll need regulators to to step down the pressure at the generator and household appliances, as you stated. The regulator equipment would be provided by a plumbing contractor, there are many on the market, so the plumber would likely choose a make & model they are familiar with. You should also confirm from the meter manufacturer that your gas meter will provide the proper CF/H of gas at the specified PSI. For example, if your gas meter is made by Honeywell, I’d call them to provide documentation that what the utility is proposing will work. Good luck.